![]() UPSON BOARD - MDF used as interior sheathing and in many other applications from puzzles to oil paintings.Guide to Plaster & Drywall & Other Interior Wall Coverings as Indicators of Building Age Article Series Contents We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need. Our page top photo shows hand-split wooden lath backing for a plaster interior wall. This article discusses the identification and history of older interior building surface materials such plaster and lath, Beaverboard, and Drywall - materials that were used to form the (usually) non-structural surface of building interior ceilings and walls. Guide to beaverboard, drywall, plaster & paneling on interior walls:Īges & types of finish materials used for interior walls & ceilings: here we provide a photo guide to identifying types of plaster, lath, Beaver board, Upson Board, and Drywall to help identify these interior building wall and ceiling coverings and as an aid in determining the age of a building. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. I used them for my bathroom shiplap and they worked great! There Is Such a Thing as Too Many Nail Holes (when you’re the one filling them…)įor installation, we nailed each board to the walls using a nail gun (being sure to get some nails into studs) in addition to applying Liquid Nails on the back of each board.InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. If not, hire this job out to a contractor if you don’t have your own table saw.Īnother option that’s become available since doing my shiplap walls is pre-cut mdf boards like. If you’re going to try having them do it for you, I would try just one sheet first to check that you’re getting a nice clean and even cut. Lowes and Home Depot will cut your plywood sheets into strips for you for a small fee and while I know some people have had this done successfully, I would definitely proceed with caution – their saws are made for doing rough cuts and often leave jagged and/or uneven edges. The cheapest way to get thin wood shiplap strips at an exact height is to cut them out of ¼″ plywood or MDF sheets (I went with maple plywood sheets because they seemed to be the smoothest of the ¼″ plywood options at Lowes). Just don’t forget to take the spacing in between the boards into account when making your calculations! I ended up going with a height of 6 ¼″ for mine. So measure the space between the crown molding and baseboard and figure out a good height to cut the boards so that they fill the space exactly. The other prepwork that’s a definite must is a little bit of math – you want all of your boards to be the same height rather than getting to the end and realizing that you’re going to have an awkward thin strip at the bottom. I used Farrow & Ball White for my shiplap paint – you can read more on it and other great whites in my post on the best white paint colors. Truth be told it took me a LONG time to pre-paint them so I’m not sure if this part of my prepwork was a time-saver or not in the end. ![]() I also painted the top and bottom edges of each shiplap board before it went up on the wall because I knew it would be a little nightmarish to try and paint the edges by sticking a paintbrush through the small space between the boards once they were hung. Seeing this lovely light blue wall color (which is what they looked like before doing this project) between the white boards wouldn’t have been such a great look! Why? Because there’s a small gap between the boards where you can see the wall and you definitely don’t want a different color showing through. ![]() Prep work for a shiplap wall project is key! First off, you want to paint the walls in the room the same color that you’re going to paint your shiplap. So much easier! Shiplap Prep: Paint Your Walls & Do Your Math! ![]() ![]() Umm… no thank you! We went with plywood strips that are only ¼″ deep so we were able to leave all of the molding in the room in place and simply butt the wood strips up against it. But also, since true shiplap boards are about ¾″ deep, it means that you have to remove ALL of your molding (baseboards, crown molding, door trim) to install “real” shiplap and then reinstall the molding back on top of it. There’s definitely a significant cost savings to creating the look of shiplap with plywood strips instead of using true shiplap boards so that’s one reason that faux is the way to go. ![]()
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